Curfew, Day 2

Today Jalandhar was given two opportunities to 'behave.' Curfew was relaxed from 8-10 am this morning and then again from 4-6pm. Navjot went to buy vegetables at around 8:30. He managed to get some vegetables, but he had to be very patient because the stand was busy with hollering people anxious to get food. I called him twice: once to see if he could get fabric softener (if the provisional shop was open) ("That is so American"--Navjot said). I could barely hear Navjot; instead I heard yells and shouts by a huge crowd--it sounded like he was at the New Year's Eve Party at Times Square. Then I "thought" Raju wanted to tell Navjot that we got milk from downstairs, but no, during the second call, he asked Navjot to buy milk, which, if I had understood better, I could have told him that I already asked him, and he said the store didn't have any.

Fortunately, our landlords knew we had no milk, so when their milk was delivered this morning, they bought an extra kg for us, around 10am. So, our house is fully stocked with our usual comforts and conveniences, except for the luxurious item of fabric softener.

At 4:30 (during the second curfew release) Navjot and I walked to Guruji's flat to visit, and see what 'curfew state' was like. Few cars were out; the people who were out were adults trying to buy fruits and vegetables. Near Guruji's house, small groups of boys were taking advantage of the light traffic with street games of cricket. We stepped around a few collections of broken glass. One high rise shopping building had an enormous pane knocked out, which made a spread of glass pieces the size of a large puddle. We also saw a group of new puppies along the street...they were cute, but Navjot was surprised that their parent hid when we walked by.

We saw another dog at the entrance to Guruji's flat. After a short visit, where we listened to their weekly family musical/religious event, we struggled to find a rickshaw to take us home, since we were nearing the 6pm curfew time. The second guy we approached took us, after giving us flak about the time. He took us the wrong way down a usually busy street, then ignored the lights (again, still in oncoming traffic lane) at the intersection at Guru Nanak Mission---not a 4-way light, like in USA, but a 6-way light. I gripped Navjot's arm like a vice-clamp as we coasted through our red light, and when we safely reached the other side, we were moving with the traffic. You may think the rickshaw driver was in a hurry, but no, after his initial statements about the time, the curfew didn't trouble his mind a bit. The rickshaw driver did this because the traffic was light enough that he felt it was reasonably safe. People did avoid us, and though I got anxious at the intersections, I didn't get angry or frightened. I did see carrion feeding on a dead dog near that intersection. I rarely see roadkill here, and that sight nauseated me. Since the rickshaw drivers are losing a lot of money due to this curfew, we paid our guy double the amount we agreed on (15 rupees (33 cents) to 30 rupees...67 cents (how do we sleep at night??)) The driver showed his appreciation by quickly and gracefully putting his hands together in a prayer clasp and touching his forefingers to his lips. I had to lay down for a while when I got home; the sight of the dead dog, and the heat left me feeling icky.

Navjot thinks that we will be under curfew for a few more days; he emphasizes patience. I would like the curfew to be lifted tomorrow. At least he is preparing me for a longer wait. I am starting to turn the wheels for some kind of alternative way of reaching New Delhi for my flight out next week...

More to come..