We went back to Vicki-auntie's house round 2am for doli. It took place in the courtyard/backyard. People were sitting on rented bed cushions and using rejais (very thick blankets) to keep warm. Nav kept us indoors for a long time, but then we finally went out. I wanted so much to lay down and sleep, but everyone was sitting up, and so we did too. The same pundit continued his singsong chanting. A group of ladies kept giggling and giggling. If I closed my eyes for longer than 10 seconds, the ladies started whispering and giggling at me—just a part of the novelty of being the only white person around. I finally turned completely away from them, resolved to ignore them, and was able to sleep for about 15 min, which helped me a lot.
The doli seemed to take forever. We were not able to go home until after 5am. Picture me grouchy--not hard, I know...and at those times the thing I need most is to be left alone, so I can avoid being rude, etc.....well, I was at that point throughout the doli, but here in India, people are everywhere, so I was feeling very people-claustrophobic. I emerged all-right: I didn't offend anyone, at least to my knowledge, but I did make one or two sarcastic remarks. Nav was very helpful as a sympathetic, understanding listener, and we were so lucky to be able to go to another house and have a quiet sleep!
The next day I seized an opportunity to sit outside by myself in Vicki-auntie’s sun-filled small front garden, and I read an English newspaper that I greedily scrounged from a discarded pile of hindi papers. It was Sunday, and the outdoors only sounded birds and breezes, very unusual, for the blaring horns and bells of traffic usually drown out the gentle sounds of nature. As I realized my great fortune and stretched out on the cot, I briefly felt tears in my eyes; I had so much gratitude for that more familiar environment of repose.
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