Varanasi

We took a boat ride at 6am, and saw people beginning their morning routine on the Ganges. Ghats, which means steps to the river, lined the banks of the river all along the city. Most of the ghats had a different look, depending on who built them and when. Tourists like ourselves were drifting around in other boats; we were all watching the locals on the shore. I found this disturbing, but I was still dealing with the culture shock, so I accepted my place firmly behind the 'glass.'

The river was nasty. At 6-ish am, some Indians bathed, some still wearing their bright cloth wrapped around their hips, like a large diaper, some men didn't wear anything. All women bathed clothed. Others began their laundry by beating their cloth on flat slabs of stone placed in knee deep water. The stones must have been propped up with something. Further up, loud laughter echoed over the river from a group of people practicing laughter yoga. I took a picture of them as they performed a string of synchronized movements.

The main ghat, the Dasashwamedha Ghat, was filled with people so early in the morning. Bright boats bordered the busy steps. The Priyang ghat, next to Dasashwamedha, was populated with as many large, colorful umbrellas as Dasashwamedha had people. Just before our turning point, we came upon an area with wide piles of white and black ashes which were surrounded by stacks of logs about 3 feet high. Behind these piles sat two or three large, soot stained concrete temples. The ghats themselves were covered in a dark ash. Smoke billowed out from the ash. I didn't see a name, but I believe this was the Manikarnika ghat, (or the ghat NEXT to Manikarnika) where the cremations took place. It is believed that this area has been burning for centuries continuously. This place held my attention. However, the book Michelle, a Fulbrighter friend, gave to me did not hold my attention. In explaining the origins and functions of this cremation ground, the author told about 10 myths and legends all in a row, inserting a phrase here or there about how this place actually functions. Sifting through all the stories does help me to understand how tied up this place is in hindu...mythology. Knowing the myths/stories will probably be the only way I will understand why these people want to bathe in a filthy river, and why they are so convinced they will receive the holy benefits promised in bathing, cremating, and performing rituals (yagnis).

Although I enjoyed the boat ride, the rest of the time I felt exhausted from travel. I didn't even want to venture out to see the temples! Lame! We only had about an hour or two to do so anyway, and I spent that time taking a nap. Navjot was more enterprising: he bought 2 tabla drums, which thankfully, our "Big Red" suitcase made room for them, with some help and pleading from me. I love you Big Red!

I did receive continual amusement from one of our traveling companions, Paul. We were three days early for the big Hindu holiday/festival of colors called Holi. Well, a refreshment enjoyed on and around Holi is a yogurt drink called Bhang Lassi. Bhaang is...marijuana. It is pureed and blended with yogurt and water. On our first day, our friend persistently asked locals where he could get this drink. Finally, he got one, on a rooftop restaurant. His persistence, and the word Bhaang, kept me giggling at just about any time I happened to think of it.

We only had a day and a half here....I think if I were a little less tired and cultured shocked, and had a another day, I would have experienced more of this city.